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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. But, nestled prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.